Theodora

There are restaurants, and then there are restaurants where you want to stay for several hours, order another cocktail, and then order one more, just so you don’t have to leave. Theodora in Fort Greene is a stay-forever restaurant, with particularly good cocktails and the look of a mid-century modern cave. And like the backyard at its sister restaurant, Miss Ada, it's one of the most pleasant places to spend a Thursday evening in Brooklyn. 

But if you go to Miss Ada for multiple rounds of pita and dips, you head to Theodora for all things fish. Here, you'll find dainty, Mediterranean-ish plates, prepared by people who know everything about that fish—its birthplace, its favorite hobbies—including exactly what to do to it so that it's at its very best by the time it lands on your table.

photo credit: Brian Ferry

photo credit: Brian W. Ferry

photo credit: Melissa Hom

photo credit: Melissa Hom

Fish are everywhere. Fish drawings on the menu, fish matchboxes by the door, fish sizzling away on the grills in the open kitchen, and a long hiramasa hanging in a dry-ager. Groups crowd the back room, which has the acoustics of an underground bunker, and couples who had their second date at Miss Ada perch at the bar for their 122nd.

The za’atar kubaneh, which looks like a savory cinnamon roll, is on every table. You should get one too, along with the striped bass ceviche, before you move on to larger plates like grilled branzino, or steelhead trout with skin as crisp as a kettle chip. Keep in mind that dishes lean small and pricey overall, so save this place for weekday special occasions, or a hot little date.

Food Rundown

photo credit: Melissa Hom

The Cocktails

If you walk by Theodora and see an open bar seat, you should take it, order a cocktail and the striped bass ceviche, and then feel free to continue the rest of your evening as planned. The cocktail menu alone is worth a visit. If it's your first time, get the Aristaeus cocktail with tequila, honey, and feta. And also a pickled mushroom shot.

photo credit: Melissa Hom

Za’atar Kubaneh

Like a cinnamon roll, but with za’atar, this is a fantastic addition to your table. The kubaneh comes with three sauces—schug, tomato aioli, and harissa—which you should hoard for the rest of your meal if you don’t finish them during your bread dipping.

photo credit: Melissa Hom

Ricotta Toast

The ricotta toast feels a little out of place on this menu, but it's a nice option for a larger group that wants to share a bunch of things—or eat a lot of bread to balance out the mushroom shots.

Striped Bass Ceviche

At some point while you’re elbow deep in kubaneh, a small bowl will land on your table. Give it your complete attention. Inside are soft cubes of bass and small pieces of charred pineapple swimming in a creamy lime vinaigrette—a citrusy ecosystem.

photo credit: Melissa Hom

Falafel

If you're here with a vegetarian—unadvisable, really, but OK sure—the falafel is a solid choice. But you should be here with pescetarians, and focus on the seafood.

Steelhead Trout

If this trout is on the menu, order it. The fish is ultra-soft, and the skin is potato-chip-level crispy. We’ve probably said that before, as an exaggeration. But this is not an exaggeration. If your group is larger than two, consider getting more than one order.