LDNReview
Included In
The first thing we ask of a restaurant is that they feed us really good food. The second is that they make us look cool. If you are currently judging us, please know that we are far too old to learn how to play an electric guitar and consider illegally streaming Succession to be the height of naughtiness. Bless our hearts, sometimes we need restaurants to do the hard work for us and in the case of Temaki, they have really done us a solid on the cool scales. Oh, and it also really doesn’t hurt that they’ve absolutely mastered the handroll.
So, here’s how your visit is going to go. You’ll rock up at Brixton’s Market Row with a best mate or that person you’re dating who hasn’t yet figured out that the tattoo in your dating profile was definitely the temporary kind. You’ll pass by tiny buzzing restaurants and those rammed fabric shops that give you a brief fleeting confidence that you could upholster that Ikea chair if you tried really, really hard, before arriving at Temaki’s door. You’ll clock the simple ceramic plates, the sleek bare walls, and see people perched at a light wooden wrap-around counter, one diner tucking into a perfect otoro-topped roll as their companion patiently watches puppy dog style as the chef makes theirs. Muster up a very calm smile - cool, totally cool mate - and get ready to load up on rich lobster, crunchy tempura numbers, and yuzu negronis for a meal that’s as cool and easy as chucking on a leather jacket.
photo credit: Charlie McKay
It’s worth noting that Temaki doesn’t exclusively serve, well, temaki. There are a few other things on the menu like some zesty yellowtail sashimi, monkfish karaage, and a cosy hug in the form of their excellent miso soup. But coming to Temaki and filling up on the small plates is like going to Burger King and ordering a salad or asking your dental hygienist for a wax. Trust us, that doesn’t end up well for anyone involved. No, you’re here for the truly excellent handrolls and for the casual price of 30 quid you can try the set menu involving akami tuna, crab, salmon, otoro, prawn tempura, and BBQ eel rolls without even having to do any draining arithmetics. All of the above are quality rolls but your favourite will be the absolute banger that is the BBQ eel temaki. Don’t like eel? Feel conflicted about anything related to a grill after that time you got feral with some BBQ sauce in your bed? Whatever. You’ll still love this tender fishy smoke show. It’s just that good.
photo credit: Charlie McKay
The only thing about Temaki that doesn’t always hit bang on the cool mark - look, we’re sure even Zendaya has off days - is the service. It’s quick and entertaining for anyone who has considered paying for a sushi lesson, but we had a couple experiences that teetered into what we’re going to call ‘too interactive’. Sometimes you need a little privacy when you want to discuss important things like whether MI5 will track you down for your illegal Succession habit. But honestly, that really is the only thing here that might detract from a standout affordable meal that is less swagger and more a confident smile. The sake list is great, that BBQ eel temaki is undeniably memorable, and if your visit goes anything like our third trip here, you’ll spot a cast member of Sex Education and get so excited that you drop seaweed on yourself. See, we said we aren’t cool.
Food Rundown
photo credit: Aleksandra Boruch
Miso Soup
photo credit: Aleksandra Boruch
Yellowtail Sashimi
photo credit: Aleksandra Boruch
Akami Tuna Temaki
Salmon Temaki
photo credit: Charlie McKay
‘Surprise Me’
photo credit: Heidi Lauth Beasley