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photo credit: Kayla Sager-Riley

stuffed eggplant from Sophon
8.1

Sophon

Cambodian

Greenwood

$$$$
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As you walk into Sophon, a Khmer restaurant in Greenwood, you’ll notice family portraits proudly displayed among the glowing lanterns and silky fabrics. There’s a feeling that you stepped into someone’s very ornate living room. You kind of did—a welcome note from the chef/owner is on the table and servers thoughtfully describe how the Cambodian dishes remind them of their own upbringing. This vibrant space tells a story, and a menu full of passed-down recipes makes it easy to settle in and listen closely.

A lot is going on in the buzzy dining room. Friends lean over each other to grab bites of green mango salad, clairin-fueled birthday celebrations are happening, and dates snuggle up at the bar like they have nowhere to be. You can sip on well-crafted tropical cocktails with simple names like “beach” (Ken might approve) as songs by The Fugees play. A never-ending flow of pillowy white rice comes out of the kitchen, and the owner bounces around to each table to make sure everyone is having a great time.

The menu isn’t long—and like “The Matrix” or buying a boat, sometimes the first part of something is just better. None of the entrees are bad—we love the tender pork belly—it’s just that we keep wanting more buttery crudo and any crispy bits of khmeraage left unattended. The easiest move would be to just order every appetizer and share, making this a great place to impress an out-of-towner or celebrate something special, like finally selling your floating money pit.

Food Rundown

Kroeung Chicken Khmeraage

These bite-sized pieces of juicy chicken thigh are dredged in a fairy dusting of potato starch flour that adds just enough crunch without being heavy and oily. Dip each piece in the sweet and tangy kroeung aioli, or don’t—either way it’s a front-runner for the best thing here.

Kroeung Mushroom Khmeraage

When it comes to the mushroom or chicken khmeerage, don’t make us choose. We’re ordering both, and you should, too.

Pleauh Trei Crudo

These gorgeous slices of albacore tuna are rolled in mossy green lime salt and topped with charred pineapple chunks. And while the slightly cooked edges are more of a seared situation than actual crudo, it’s still a refreshing dish as the citrus comes through strongly.

Nhoam Salad

This noodle salad is spicy and sweet, with tons of bouncy vermicelli noodles, finely shredded vegetables, and a tangy fish sauce dressing. Chunks of cured shrimp thrown in are a bit bland, but bright pockets of herbs like mint and Thai basil and teeny tiny dried shrimp add a nice burst of sodium and texture.

Sach Ko Ang

While we loved the spicy and umami packed fish paste sauce drizzled over this steak, the meat itself is a bit tough and overcooked.

Kha Sach Chrouk

If you are with a group that might need more than just a meal of appetizers, this larger entree is the way to go. The pork belly has a hint of sweetness from the coconut and palm sugar marinade. It’s so soft, you'll feel sort of ridiculous after having attempted to cut through it with a knife in the first place. Paired with bites of snappy pickled bamboo shoots and a jammy egg, the whole dish is a great mix of savory and sweet.

Nom Pachok

Our only gripe with this dish is the noodles. The fish is fried perfectly, the taro chunks add heartiness, and we could drink the soupy yellow curry broth all day. But the vermicelli noodles tend to clump together and the curry slides right off of them. We’d rather take this dish sans noodles, with rice instead, and be totally content.

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FOOD RUNDOWN

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