LAReview

photo credit: Jessie Clapp

A slice of mortadella pizza on a paper plate on top of a green milk crate.
8.0

Shins Pizza

Pizza

Cypress Park

$$$$Perfect For:Serious Take-Out OperationWalk-Ins
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Shins Pizza in Cypress Park is, in fact, a slice shop. Which means you can order a Mexican coke at the counter, eat standing up, and start a relationship with a wedge of pepperoni. But unlike your typical pizza counter with milk crates as patio furniture, Shin’s serves slices with updated, often Asian-influenced toppings that are fun and inventive without going overboard. All the combinations are delicious, especially the slice with sweet Chinese sausage, pepperoni, smoky speck, and a dollop of sambal, which is so good it deserves its own dedicated takeout window.

Shins Pizza image

photo credit: Jessie Clapp

Shins Pizza image

photo credit: Jessie Clapp

Shins Pizza image

photo credit: Jessie Clapp

Shins Pizza image

photo credit: Jessie Clapp

Shins Pizza image

photo credit: Jessie Clapp

Shins Pizza image
Shins Pizza image
Shins Pizza image
Shins Pizza image
Shins Pizza image

This one-of-a-kind slice shop, which comes from the same people behind Barra Santos and Found Oyster, doesn’t just make great pizza, though—the various sides, salads, and desserts here would all be scene-stealers in a non-pizza setting. We especially like the crispy-crunchy BBQ pork arancini, celery salad with blue cheese and pickled chiles, and a pleasantly tart cup of kalamansi Italian ice. But the main attractions are still the pies. Each slice folds in half like there’s a perforated edge down the middle, and the crust has all the sturdy chew of classic NY-style pizza.

Shins is best suited for a quick, drop-by lunch or dinner. But there are a few limitations to bear in mind: There’s nowhere to sit or stand inside the restaurant, and the few outdoor “tables” are usually taken. Whole pies are available, too, but don’t expect much of a discount from the per-slice price. And be prepared to curb-loiter while watching the kitchen staff wave pizza peels in and out of the oven like a team of Vikings rowing a boat.

Food Rundown

Shins Pizza image

photo credit: Jessie Clapp

Meat Slice

Like someone plopped a plate of pad kee mao on a pizza. The sweet cured meats and spicy globs of sambal balance each other nicely, putting a subtle twist on a classic sausage slice that’s so good we might just squeal.
A slice of mortadella pizza on a paper plate on top of a green milk crate.

photo credit: Jessie Clapp

Mortadella Slice

The thin slice of silky deli meat draped over this white slice might look a little controversial. But the combo of creamy ricotta draped with rich, porky mortadella is an upgrade we can get behind.
Shins Pizza image

photo credit: Jessie Clapp

Veggie Slice

No matter how you feel about mushrooms, you’ll want to try this version. It’s topped with tender cremini 'shrooms, wilted broccolini, salty kalamata olives, fresno chile slices, and red onions that nearly carmelize in the hot oven.
Shins Pizza image

photo credit: Jessie Clapp

Pepperoni Slice

A tasty classic, but you’ll probably forget all about it after eating the more unique slices on the menu.
Shins Pizza image

photo credit: Jessie Clapp

Marinara Slice

A solid option for vegans. The quality of the crust and the tangy tomato sauce comes through like a Marvin Gaye sample on a hip-hop track.
Shins Pizza image

photo credit: Jessie Clapp

BBQ Pork Arancini

Our favorite non-pizza thing here: this crispy rice ball is loaded with juicy, slightly sweet barbecue pork on the inside. Consider this a must-order if you’re eating on the sidewalk, as they’re best eaten hot from the fryer.
Shins Pizza image

photo credit: Jessie Clapp

Kalamansi Italian Ice

If you shook together fresh orange, lemon, and lime, and tossed them in the freezer, you’d get something like this icy one-cup sherbert (complete with cute wooden spoon). It’s more tart than sweet and is perfect for a sunny Saturday afternoon on the sidewalk.

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FOOD RUNDOWN

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