LDNReview
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Triple threats are rare. How often do you find a singer that can also dance and weep on command like Meryl Streep in the middle of an accident at the local onion farm? Or a Nobel Prize-winning scientist who’s also a tennis pro and a concert pianist on the weekends? Answer: hardly ever. That’s exactly why people who are triple threats are so impressive. And so are triple threat restaurants.
Quality Chop House is an excellent restaurant in Clerkenwell that’s very talented at doing classic British food. But its younger sibling and next-door neighbour Quality Wines manages to be an excellent lunchtime cafe, nighttime restaurant, and wine bar all rolled into one. Oh, it’s also a shop. So, technically, it’s a quadruple threat. Whether you swing by at lunch for a piece of saint-nectaire and end up leaving with a hot salt beef sandwich, or a glass of wine and some jamon de bellota on a Tuesday night, you’ll realise that this place is not only a spot of many talents, but a spot that knows how to make some downright tasty food.
Take their evening European small plates. They’re hey-lardo-toast-meet-wine-you’ll-be-great-friends dishes, done right. A couple of bites into something like their veal and pork meatballs and you can imagine many of London’s other wine bars slow-clapping with a forced smile like they just lost Best Picture. Then, for a weekday lunch, there’s a rotating menu of hot and cold sandwiches that you should categorically not eat while walking back to your office. We repeat, do not attempt a low-key sandwich stroll. Mostly because, with this much roast chicken, pork collar, and sauerkraut going on, it would be a waste not to sit down and show these sandwiches the respect they deserve. But also because you’ll probably end up with garlic mayo down your top.
photo credit: Koray Firat
photo credit: Koray Firat
Even if the food at Quality Wines wasn’t as good as it is, we’d probably still hang out here just for the wine. And the space. There are a couple walls of bottles, neatly stacked ingredients in the shop next door, a counter, some stools, and a few small tables. By day it has the feel of an idyllic little village shop. By night, it becomes the kind of cosy, charming hideout where you gather around a couple of candles and decide that another glass is in order just because you’re having such a lovely time.
Whether you bring friends or that relative who swears they can tell exactly where each grape in the sip of their riesling was spawned, they’ll like it here. They’ll be relaxed, romanced, impressed. Because this place is good at everything it does. If Quality Wines was a person it’d probably have already run off to join RADA, waltzing its way into the Top 40 with a ballad about burrata. But that’s the best thing about a restaurant that’s a triple threat—there’s absolutely zero threat that it’s going anywhere.
Food Rundown
Gilda
photo credit: Giulia Verdinelli
Lardo Battuto Crostino
photo credit: Giulia Verdinelli
Burrata
Marinda Tomatoes, Blood Orange, Olives, Capers, And Oregano
photo credit: Giulia Verdinelli
White Asparagus, Egg Yolk, And Bottarga
photo credit: Giulia Verdinelli
Veal And Pork Meatballs, Passata, And Parmesan
Boudin Noir, Navarre Chickpeas, And Chermoula
Salted Caramel And Chocolate Brownie
photo credit: Giulia Verdinelli